This thread is meant to provide some general information regarding some things to consider when adding larger than stock tire sizes and/or aftermarket wheels with specs different stock.
Here is a general infographic of where interferences will occur with the addition of larger tires/varied wheel offsets:
First, let's talk suspension and suspension lifts. The suspension is meant to go up and down and are designed to have a max upward travel distance and downward travel distance. OEM tire sizes are designed to clear all the surrounding suspension components and structure at full compression steering lock to lock. The bumpstops located just above the lower control arms are the absolute limiting component of suspension upward travel.
While suspension lifts (strut spacers, spring/strut combo, coilovers, etc.) are an easy way to gain some clearance between wheel & tire and the surround components and structure AT static ride height, it does nothing for clearance when the suspension cycles upward completely. You'll still get the same max allowable upward travel with stock suspension with all the same interferences from lock to lock at full compression. And when you're off-roading, your suspension WILL cycle upward all the way.
Naturally, when putting on larger tires, you are effectively reducing the amount of clearance between the tire and the suspension components, fender, inner fender liner, firewall, and frame. How much reduction in clearances that will occur depends on the wheel AND tire combination. And I say wheel AND tire because the specs of the wheel will determine the placement of the tire at static ride height and the tire specs affects the steering turning travel area that is covered from lock to lock.
The two characteristics that determine wheel & tire placement are wheel backspacing and wheel offset. The lower the backspacing, the more the wheel & tire is pushed AWAY from the wheel hub (wheel sticks out more). The higher the negative offset, the more the wheel & tire is pushed AWAY from the wheel hub (wheel sticks out more).
Low backspaced and high negative offset wheels create clearance away from SOME surrounding components and structure, but effectively, it only moves the interferences to another location.
Wheel spacers reduces wheel backspacing (e.g. 4.5" backspace + 1.25" wheel spacer = 3.25" backspace).
Body lifts create vertical clearance by lifting the actual sheet metal body AWAY from the frame and suspension.
To create clearance for larger tires using a body lift, a good rule of thumb is 1in for every 2in tire diameter change (e.g. OEM 30s > 35s = +5in diameter change ->2.5-3in body lift).
Here is a general infographic of where interferences will occur with the addition of larger tires/varied wheel offsets:
First, let's talk suspension and suspension lifts. The suspension is meant to go up and down and are designed to have a max upward travel distance and downward travel distance. OEM tire sizes are designed to clear all the surrounding suspension components and structure at full compression steering lock to lock. The bumpstops located just above the lower control arms are the absolute limiting component of suspension upward travel.
While suspension lifts (strut spacers, spring/strut combo, coilovers, etc.) are an easy way to gain some clearance between wheel & tire and the surround components and structure AT static ride height, it does nothing for clearance when the suspension cycles upward completely. You'll still get the same max allowable upward travel with stock suspension with all the same interferences from lock to lock at full compression. And when you're off-roading, your suspension WILL cycle upward all the way.
Naturally, when putting on larger tires, you are effectively reducing the amount of clearance between the tire and the suspension components, fender, inner fender liner, firewall, and frame. How much reduction in clearances that will occur depends on the wheel AND tire combination. And I say wheel AND tire because the specs of the wheel will determine the placement of the tire at static ride height and the tire specs affects the steering turning travel area that is covered from lock to lock.
The two characteristics that determine wheel & tire placement are wheel backspacing and wheel offset. The lower the backspacing, the more the wheel & tire is pushed AWAY from the wheel hub (wheel sticks out more). The higher the negative offset, the more the wheel & tire is pushed AWAY from the wheel hub (wheel sticks out more).
Low backspaced and high negative offset wheels create clearance away from SOME surrounding components and structure, but effectively, it only moves the interferences to another location.
Wheel spacers reduces wheel backspacing (e.g. 4.5" backspace + 1.25" wheel spacer = 3.25" backspace).
Body lifts create vertical clearance by lifting the actual sheet metal body AWAY from the frame and suspension.
To create clearance for larger tires using a body lift, a good rule of thumb is 1in for every 2in tire diameter change (e.g. OEM 30s > 35s = +5in diameter change ->2.5-3in body lift).
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