Factory speaker replacement????

[Imrider]

So no extra plates or adapter?

I can make them I just don’t want to.

 

[Meoshe]

You can drill new holes like 05seqheadache did and use longer screws. I cut the factory jbl speakers to make a "ring" and just screwed these into the "ring".

 

[SMP]

Good info here.
2001 Toyota Sequoia - SR5 with JBL Stereo.

My build is as follows: 2 Din Headunit, cheaped out on Pre-outs and bought a cheaper Unit (only 1 - Pre-out, this will not allow me to control system through head unit. But I will be able to adjust sub/speakers, with the amp gains and sub adjustment dial amp comes with.

I have not added speaker adaptors, wiring, Sound Dampening, or capacitor for build, to this list. As I complete I will take pictures. If you have a question, just post I will do my best to check in.

For Front Lower & Tweeter: Powered by amp
https://www.hertzaudiovideo.com/car-audio-speakers-system-mille-pro-mpk165-3/

Front 2 inch Mid: Powered by head unit.
https://www.massiveaudio.com/products/mx2-coaxial-speaker

Rear Lower: Powered by amp
https://www.hertzaudiovideo.com/car-audio-coaxials-mille-pro-mpx165-3/

Sub: Rear Driver side Panel - I haven't decided what sub to use or if I will make my own enclosure. Link is example of what is available.
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_13694109/JL-Audio-Stealthbox.html

Amplifier: This will power the front component set, Rear Coax Speakers, and rear Sub.
https://www.hertzaudiovideo.com/car-audio-amplifiers-mlpower5/


This is a 4 ohm system. I looked at a bunch of 2 ohm systems but in the end this was a great deal for me, as I bought all the main items on sale for around 50% off. It also doesn't matter except in the power output from the aftermarket amp. I will not be using the stock Toyota JBL amps. I will re-wire the doors with higher grade wiring to each set. Since I am wiring the doors anyways from the amp, the amp bypass wiring kit is not necessary.

 

[SMP]

You can buy a Metra wiring adapter for a new head unit install, to either use the stock amps or bypass the stock amps.

 

[Kent Hardaway]

I’m wanting to replace the midrange speakers in my front doors. How well did the Massive Audio MX2’s fit and how do they sound compared to the factory speakers?

 

[trillneil]

Hey folks, I’m new to this forum and new to my 2007 Sequoia Limited. I stumbled across this board after googling speaker replacement options only to find out this is a known issue. I created a profile hoping to revive this discussion. I read through all the comments and am baffled there is not a cheaper easier option.

In an effort to update the system for Bluetooth and iPhone syncing, I replaced the receiver with an inexpensive Pioneer AVH 290BT. I kept the factory amps. Everything sounded ok until the front speakers started to rattle or whatever you call this issue. Even at the lowest levels the audio is unbearable.

I just want the cheapest, easiest replacement option to get it back to sounding like the factory JBL setup. Nothing special or custom. Obviously I don’t want to pay $600 for bad OEM speakers.

Has anyone come across anything that is just plug and play without making or buying adapters?? Is there anything new this topic??

 

[trillneil]

i ordered power bass 7in woofers for my front door they are 2ohm.. they are slightly larger but new drill holes they fit np. im new to the forum and new to my sequoia so im not allowed to post a link to the speakers i found a set cheap on crutchfield. ill give you guys my opinion of how they sound vs the old ones when i get around to do the install... its been cold here. yet i might not have heard my system at its potential b4 to give the best feedback how they preform.

*bump*

 

[Mtoddsolomon]

Check out Sal R’s build thread I think he replaced his

 

[Meoshe]

The stock JBL is a weird size and holes do not line up with even other 7" speakers. Almost no way around using/making adapters. You can buy some adapters for around $35 US. If you use the PB speakers you can use the outer ring of the stock speakers to screw in the replacements, its free and works good if you take your time with a cut off wheel.

 

[guyonabuffalo]

I replaced my lower fronts with the Powerbass L2-700 2-ohm based on someone's recommendation in this thread and they sound great with the factory JBL amp. Not sure if they'll work for the rears, but when I have some time I plan on taking the rear door panels off and looking at fitment of the L2's. If not, I'll look for some 6.5" 2-ohm.

 

[smt]

I replaced my lower fronts with the Powerbass L2-700 2-ohm based on someone's recommendation in this thread and they sound great with the factory JBL amp. Not sure if they'll work for the rears, but when I have some time I plan on taking the rear door panels off and looking at fitment of the L2's. If not, I'll look for some 6.5" 2-ohm.

I just ordered these.
How did you connect them to the factory wiring?

 

[vovatashkent]

I replaced my lower fronts with the Powerbass L2-700 2-ohm based on someone's recommendation in this thread and they sound great with the factory JBL amp. Not sure if they'll work for the rears, but when I have some time I plan on taking the rear door panels off and looking at fitment of the L2's. If not, I'll look for some 6.5" 2-ohm.

Hi there. Do I need any wire adapters?

 

[SMP]

I’m wanting to replace the midrange speakers in my front doors. How well did the Massive Audio MX2’s fit and how do they sound compared to the factory speakers?

They worked. They do not fit in stock opening. I had to make adapter plates for both the sub and the MX2's. Not sure they were worth the effort but they do add a set of tweets. I am using a bass blocker on mine since I didn't have a 3 way cross over.

 

[SMP]

I replaced my lower fronts with the Powerbass L2-700 2-ohm based on someone's recommendation in this thread and they sound great with the factory JBL amp. Not sure if they'll work for the rears, but when I have some time I plan on taking the rear door panels off and looking at fitment of the L2's. If not, I'll look for some 6.5" 2-ohm.

You can buy a 6.5 inch adapter for the rears. That was the easy part.

 

[Faultedman85]

I used 6.5" kicker D5 two way speakers in my doors with an aftermarket head unit that has been wired into the factory amp. They're smaller than you were asking about, however I have 2 10" subs myself and after turning the bass down all the way on my head unit, it sounds as if I have an aftermarket amp on my mids and highs. They really sound amazing and they're on $49 a pair at Walmart and even less on Amazon.

 

[Faultedman85]

So who else has replaced the factory 2 ohm door speakers with after market 2ohm speakers? I found it very difficult to find many options when it came to aftermarket 2 ohm speakers. By using 2 ohm, I was able to retain the factory amplifiers.

I'm not sure if you still have your Sequoia, and if you have already found replacement speakers or not. But if you can't find any 2 ohm speakers you like, you can use 4 ohm. An amp can handle higher ohm resistance, just not lower. Decreasing the ohms will cause it to overheat. Also if you find 4ohm DVC you can wire them in a way to make them 2ohm.

 

[Len]

Replaced just the speaker hinges, using a kit from Simply Speakers in St. Petersburg FL (google) after barely tolerating the rattling audio for the past couple years, I'm very happy with result.

 

[SequoiaSurveyor]

Yes had to replace front door speakers on the 87 Limited. Had them done at a local auto stereo place. Expensive little turds, but not having speaker buzz was worth it

 

[Jonnyjo]

Reviving this thread because I have a question about wiring a new 4ohm coaxial speaker??

What wires from the stock front door speakers do I use?? Just the green and black?? Red and black?? Yellow and red??

 

[seenhear]

Reviving this thread because I have a question about wiring a new 4ohm coaxial speaker??

What wires from the stock front door speakers do I use?? Just the green and black?? Red and black?? Yellow and red??

This is a good question, which might depend on whether you have the JBL sound or not (although I'm not sure if it matters).
Also which is positive and which is negative?
Could one simply do a sort of reverse "bi-wire" for it and solder both positive wires to the ( + ) term, and and both negative wires to the ( - ) term of the new speaker?

Also if both the OEM woofer and the OEM mid-range are 2Ohm, what is the effective resistance/load that the amp sees?

Does anyone know how the amp is wired, and how it handles the crossovers? Are frequencies crossed-over in the head unit or in the amp?

To Jonnyjo - you might need to pull the center console open to see the amp and check which color wires go to what.