OME Front Suspension for our Sequoia

Scott Jackson

Recognized Member
Jan 10, 2017
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Salt Lake City, Utah
Oh. Good luck and let us know your findings. To run a 35 I think it would be easier to put on a body lift and run what I run for a 33. Honestly I don't want any more angle in my CV's than I already have.

I have thought about the Body lift option as well.. I just have never been a fan of body lifts.
I can make my own differential drop brackets to fix the CV angles, I'm more worried about the angle on the lower arms. I can correct the camber with SPC style upper arms, but with the control arm being at that steep of an angle, the amount the wheel moves inward increases, as the arms move down. I don't think I will be happy with the handling at all. So... This leaves me with one option, and it's a pricey one. Drop brackets. I may just go see guys at Tuff Country, see what I can come up with. 55900-tundra-lift-kit.jpg
 

Soy-Quoia

Familiar Member
Jan 8, 2017
66
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Minnesota
I'm running 2886 with 5100's and have been pleased with the setup. I'm still planning to add some weight up front with dual battery setup, full brush guard, as well as a compressor under the hood and some other electrical goodies. If you do not have a plate bumper with winch, I would not recommend installing the 886's. They will be way too stiff. I already had the 5100's when I ordered my springs. I have felt like they have dampened pretty well but we will see how long they hold up.
 
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Jim Smola

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Dec 28, 2016
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Inman SC
Nice! I've held on to my 886 set and may try them again since I've added more weight up front since my first attempt
I'm running 2886 with 5100's and have been pleased with the setup. I'm still planning to add some weight up front with dual battery setup, full brush guard, as well as a compressor under the hood and some other electrical goodies. If you do not have a plate bumper with winch, I would not recommend installing the 886's. They will be way too stiff. I already had the 5100's when I ordered my springs. I have felt like they have dampened pretty well but we will see how long they hold up.
 

JohnieSoldier

New Member
Feb 16, 2017
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I can run 35x12.5w16rim.....1/4 spacers in front 4.25 inches of lift from fox/fabtech coilovers have 5 more inches of threaded body I can go up on as well....the rear is simple OME 862 with a trd taco rear shocks...dis connect my front and rear swaybars.....I can flex over anything and still keep all 4 of my mud flaps
 

Jim Smola

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Dec 28, 2016
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Inman SC
I can run 35x12.5w16rim.....1/4 spacers in front 4.25 inches of lift from fox/fabtech coilovers have 5 more inches of threaded body I can go up on as well....the rear is simple OME 862 with a trd taco rear shocks...dis connect my front and rear swaybars.....I can flex over anything and still keep all 4 of my mud flaps

Yes!!!
 

xOlfy

New Member
Dec 30, 2016
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So after much reasearch, it looks like for the front and rear shocks, springs all around for a 3.5-4", and a 315/75r16 tire im looking at around $1800. Which if you ask me is not all that much for what youre getting
 
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Jim Smola

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Dec 28, 2016
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So after much reasearch, it looks like for the front and rear shocks, springs all around for a 3.5-4", and a 315/75r16 tire im looking at around $1800. Which if you ask me is not all that much for what youre getting

Yep, one reason I went with this setup. Low cost
 

Scott Jackson

Recognized Member
Jan 10, 2017
76
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Salt Lake City, Utah
5100 will not control that 886 spring. You would be way better with an 885 on the OME strut that you already have and put a small spacer on the top to get the added height you need. Toytec does make 1/4" top spacers that will net you 1/2" lift on top of what the 885 will give you.

Update - 100% correct on this - 886 coil WAY to stiff, I get the lift I need, but I have no down travel, Painful on the trail.

So, I will be swapping to 885 with spacer for now. Will move to Full custom coil-over setup in next year or so, but for now, it's time to dump money into some Lockers and bumpers. :)
 
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Reno

New Member
Oct 11, 2017
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I have thought about the Body lift option as well.. I just have never been a fan of body lifts.
I can make my own differential drop brackets to fix the CV angles, I'm more worried about the angle on the lower arms. I can correct the camber with SPC style upper arms, but with the control arm being at that steep of an angle, the amount the wheel moves inward increases, as the arms move down. I don't think I will be happy with the handling at all. So... This leaves me with one option, and it's a pricey one. Drop brackets. I may just go see guys at Tuff Country, see what I can come up with. View attachment 377
Did you ever look into those drop brackets? I was thinking that using that type of setup would help to keep the factory drop. I never have used anything like that but i don't like how my truck handles right now with spacer lift, coils and 5100s.
 

silverback04

Recognized Member
Jan 9, 2017
93
40
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37
anyone have a side shot of there rig with a full OME setup front and rear? i currently am running a OME rear and planning to do the front.
 

dstgean

Active Member
Dec 1, 2017
32
3
8
51
Not pertinent to the 2886 info, but I am running 2885's with the 5100's on the second notch from the bottom. Smooth ride with no front bumper or winch yet, but I do get a bit of rub turning right on the inner fender liner. Wanted to go higher, but the tech that put it on said I'd get coil bound if I did. 285/70/17 Toyos for the tires
 

Scott Jackson

Recognized Member
Jan 10, 2017
76
45
18
45
Salt Lake City, Utah
Not pertinent to the 2886 info, but I am running 2885's with the 5100's on the second notch from the bottom. Smooth ride with no front bumper or winch yet, but I do get a bit of rub turning right on the inner fender liner. Wanted to go higher, but the tech that put it on said I'd get coil bound if I did. 285/70/17 Toyos for the tires
If he is referring to the upper portion of the knuckle hitting the coil, he is probably right, as with 3" of lift , they can rub. SPC, or something similar will resolve that problem.
 
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