Did you do both the front and back bump stops for each lower control arm?
Yes. Kept the washer stack height constant on all four bumpstops and they all make contact at the same time when the suspension is compressed.
Did you do both the front and back bump stops for each lower control arm?
Can you elaborate some on your sub box and maybe throw a few more pics up of it? Also, any heat concerns having the amp mounted in that cubby?
Awesome build!
MODIFICATION: Auxilary Power Tray and Relay Bus
GOAL:
Add more accessories and keep the wiring clean.
PURPOSE:
With the air lockers and compressor install, I wanted to keep all the wiring clean with room for growth for the potential addition of aux lighting, CB, winch, etc. After reading numerous threads on aux power trays on TW and T4R, it was time to lay down the skeleton for the wiring schema.
Generally speaking, this is what I came up with:
View attachment 598
The idea was to:
I used relays to accomplish the above requirements.
- Minimize the wiring penetration from the engine compartment to the cockpit.
- Keep all the load bearing wiring in the engine compartment.
- Keep only the signal bearing wiring in the cockpit for electical safety.
- Make it easy to add new switched accessories.
DURATION:
10-12 hours
MATERIALS:
16ga Steel Sheet Metal
Welder
Blue Sea 12 Circuit Fuse Block
Generic 6-Relay Bus Box
100A Type III Circuit Breaker
4ga Wiring w/ Terminals
16-18ga Wiring w/ Terminals
Female Spade Connectors
Add-A-Circuit Fuse Holder
12-Pin Molex Connector
COST: ~$120
HOW-TO:
First thing was I made a power tray to hold the 100A circuit breaker, Blue Sea fuse box, and (finally) Alpine amplifier inline fuse. The fuse box is pretty big and there wasn't a whole lot of areas to mount it cleanly.
View attachment 599
Unfortunately, there is no template. I cut and shaped the 16ga sheet metal in place. Measured and cut the bracket legs in place. The welded tray assembly is mounted on the battery bracket support, inner fender, lower inner fender directly below the brake fluid resovoir, and loosely on top of the factory fuse box.
Power tray and relay bus box mounted and ready for wiring:
View attachment 600
Wiring schema for the switches:
View attachment 602
I changed the rear locker "on" schema (vs. ARB's). Originally, the rear locker "on" indicator would not illuminate unless the air compressor was turned "on" first. I did not like this concept because I would not know that the rear locker is set to engage until the air compressor was turned "on." Because my switches are mounted low, the hazard is I'm cruising along, the air compressor is accidentally turned on and the rear switch was, unknowingly, also turned on and the rear locks, unintentionally. As a result, I'd like to know immediately on ignition if the rear lockers are set to engage when the compressor is activated.
For the ignition 12V, I used the low amp heater system fuse. To be safe, I wanted to tap a low amperage (relatively speaking) non-critical system.
Wiring it all up:
Relay bus:
View attachment 605
Wiring Blue Sea fuse box:
View attachment 603
Wires labelled and wiring up center console (on point!):
View attachment 604
For my switches, I used OTRATTW Contura XIV switches, Lower Independant, Daylight Green/Red combo. I used OEM bezel console, part number: 588440-C010, to hold them.
The switch panel terminates at the Molex connector so the panel can be removed, if necessary. Pretty clean IMO.
Finished!
View attachment 606
View attachment 607
Fired it up and it all worked on the first try!
It pays to plan ahead.
Your wiring diagrams are great. It's unusual to see that kind of effort put into wiring. It should be but it's still unusual... Thanks for sharing.
Fantastic. Nice work!
Outstanding write-up!(all of them)Some of the best and most detailed info I've seen for Sequioa
I need that brake swap!! Awesome work, thanks for sharing.
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What type of coolant did you use? Aluminium blocks require non-silicate coolant to prevent corrosion, I know the 2UZ-FE block is cast iron but also has aluminium heads...