Brake upgrade to 2007 4runner sport calipers and rotors

Dec 3, 2017
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Hi, I need new front calipers and found info in Sal's build thread about upgrading to bigger calipers and rotors. Seemed like a great mod so I bought some parts. Front reman brake calipers from Autozone 2766 and 2767. Both calipers are stamped 13WH. I ground down the mounting tabs flush with the calipers housing and ground down the tabs on the opposite side as mentioned in the mod.

I'm using OEM rotors for the 07 4runner sport, 43512-60151, OEM pads 04465-35290, and OEM shim kit 04945-0C030.

I bolted the OEM rotors on using 2 lug nuts. Bolted on the calipers without pads to test fit and rotated the rotors by hand. There is slight contact between the top edge of the rotor and the inner caliper housing. This contact can be reduced by machining the edge of the rotor. The bolt holes are fixed and I don't think grinding into the caliper housing is a good idea. Did others machine the rotors? I went back to Autozone and compared the OEM brand new rotors with aftermarket rotors and dimensionally they are the same.

Any tips from people who have done this mod about how to gain clearance? I looked at the stock Sequoia brake parts and there is about 1/8" clearance between the top edge of the rotor and the inside of the caliper. I'd like to have similar clearance with the big brake setup.
 

Sal R.

Active Member
Apr 6, 2017
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San Diego
I don't recommend you machine the rotors. 1/8" of material is a signficant amount of material for the entire rotor surface.
 
Dec 3, 2017
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I read all the descriptions on sequoia-forums and the expedition site before buying any parts and did not see anyone describe the issue I came across. That's why I asked about how much material was removed from the caliper housing where it sits on the edge of the rotor, not the tabs or the mounting surafce. Picture if you stand the rotor on edge and place the palm of your hand down over the top edge of the rotor as if you're picking it up. Where the rotor would normally have 1/8" of an inch between the top of the rotor and the inside of the caliper I have contact.

I'm not an engineer, but if the diameter of the rotor is slightly larger than 13.25" I don't think machining the diameter down to 13" is a big change. It would be removing 1/8" of an inch from the outer edge of the diameter of the rotor, just getting into the outer area where the pads sit on the rotor.

In this picture the red arrow on the right points to the top edge of the rotor where the cooling fins are visible. That's the point that is contacting the caliper housing.
https://goo.gl/images/pHiGTb
 

Sal R.

Active Member
Apr 6, 2017
311
170
43
San Diego
That's...a new one, if I understand your description accurately.

If your machining down the rotor diameter, you'd just have to make sure that the pad has good rotor contact across the whole surface.

Machining the rotor along the circumference to reduce the radius shouldn't pose too much of a problem.

Are you sure you the right size rotor?
 
Dec 3, 2017
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I'm going to pick up another set of calipers from O'Riellys and see if they are different from the Autozone 13WH calipers.
 
Dec 3, 2017
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Putting this modification on hold. I ground the caliper tabs down to about 15mm thickness and the caliper is offset on the rotor by a decent amount. I'm putting 13WL Sequoia calipers, OEM pads, and OEM rotors on for now.
 

Rob

Member
Apr 4, 2017
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I finally tackled this last weekend. I think the tabs on the caliper that you are supposed to grind flush are very crucial to get correct. At first my driver's side was not allowing the wheel to move. Ground down more, and it's better but grabs and pulls left on braking. Keeps getting better on its own, still tho. Softish pedal.

Brakes are better but pedal is softer, even with stainless lines. It's an upgrade for me because my brakes were shot, but maybe I'm missing something here as to why they are better. In theory i understand, but...

I had the smaller of the 2 sequoia/tundra stock caliper part numbers to start with also.
 
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