oh really? i thought that clamshell around the bushing helped reinforce it. sorry for being dense.The only difference is the Dust boot.. that's it.
oh really? i thought that clamshell around the bushing helped reinforce it. sorry for being dense.The only difference is the Dust boot.. that's it.
Ya, its just a dust boot to keep debris out, it might.. if the boot tears I suppose. But ya, I totally understand you wanting to upgrade, I finally found a set of Junkyard spindles from 05 tundra, so I will soon be upgraded on my 2002.oh really? i thought that clamshell around the bushing helped reinforce it. sorry for being dense.
I'm pretty sure it does include 01, have you checked with Toyota?My left front lower ball joint just failed while my wife was taking my son to school (‘01 Sequoia). Luckily they were driving slow and nd no one was hurt. Why is there a recall for ‘01 Tacoma’s (essentially the same equipment) bu
I called dealership today with vin number and no recall. So, apparently not. I may contact Toyota directly.I'm pretty sure it does include 01, have you checked with Toyota?
It's a great idea, I have couple designs in mind, but haven't had the chance to build anything. I don't think it would take much to prevent separation. .So, after reading through this last night, and essentially keeping myself up all night imagining a worst case scenario I started thinking of solutions for my 02’ Sequoia.
A) Just replace with new OE balljoints ($200)
B) Upgrade to 04+ spindles, control arms, ball joints and replace the bearings since I don’t trust junk yard wheel bearings ($1250)
C) Solo Motorsports spindles and the required but separately priced inner and out tie rods ($3,000)
Not going to lie; Solos Kit sounds great, but they are out of stock and I’m not a fan of having three listing for REQUIRED items (you have to have the spindles to run the uniball, and the inner tie rod kit to run the uniball). Just have one total price and stop making things difficult. /endsmallrant
Now the whole point of this is simple; don’t have your ball joint fall off and have your front wheel go under or off the car. Well it seems that no matter what direction you take, it’s going to be possible. So rather than spend tons reinventing the wheel, why not make a bracket with elongated bolts that prevents the control arm from separating from the spindle? Obviously it would have to be made in a way that doesn’t interfere with front suspension geometry but I’m wondering if this may be possible?
Failing that, what is the actual difference in joint size from the 03-04+ ball joint redesign?
Just hashing out some thoughts, and trying to keep the old truck less butt puckering when in the trail and at highway speeds.
With the advent of 3-D printers I think now would be one of the easiest times to, at the very least, make a prototype and have it CnC machined out and tested. Another bonus would be that it could also be useful for earlier Tacoma and 4Runner guys. I researched the tacos and runners for other possible options/solutions ons and found nothing.It's a great idea, I have couple designs in mind, but haven't had the chance to build anything. I don't think it would take much to prevent separation. .
Now is the best time for sure. But, yes, there are so many Toyotas out there that could use it. All first gen Taco's, 3rd gen 4runners, first gen tundra, and seqouia.. not to mention the available practically worldwide Landcruiser Prado. Even though I have the larger ones, they can still separate, hell even the heim replacements could too. Why Toyota engineers flipped it around, on well.. Prado was the first.With the advent of 3-D printers I think now would be one of the easiest times to, at the very least, make a prototype and have it CnC machined out and tested. Another bonus would be that it could also be useful for earlier Tacoma and 4Runner guys. I researched the tacos and runners for other possible options/solutions ons and found nothing.
With the “stay at home” orders still being active I’m going to see what kind of articulation is seen around the ball joint and if a bracket is even feasible when I have some time.
I just proactively replaced the lower ball joint myself. I used OEM because its highly recommended by everyone i speak to. The differencd between moog and oem is so clear...the ball joint looks like a larger design now on OEM. Also, the moog was leaking grease like crazy and it was only two years old.
I just replaced with OEM, but I will probably proactively replace these lbj after two years. I drive on the highway alot and this weekend the ride was great. Only issue left is my steering rack bushings need to be stiffened. But when i replace the lbj, i will autopsy them and see if the ball is larger in the oem vs. moog. It just appears to be the case looking externally...It's a great idea, I have couple designs in mind, but haven't had the chance to build anything. I don't think it would take much to prevent separation. .